Culinary Culture Episode 7: nobody out-chickens the hut
This is one I’ve been wanting to do for a while & I finally got an opportunity to cover it. So, naturally, I took it. Before we jump into this, let’s just get into the backstory of it. First established in 1957 as the chicken box, the chicken hut has the (presumed) distinction of being one of the oldest continually-operating restaurants/cafes in durham, second only to king’s which first opened fifteen years prior (at least as far as we know; there don’t seem to be any official historical records of the oldest cafes in durham). First beginning on Roxboro street, the establishment was forced to relocate after the entire block was demolished in the late 60’s using urban renewal funds. It then moved to Fayetteville street where it’s been ever since.
First owned & operated by Claiborne Tapp Jr & his wife, Peggy, they have since passed away with the restaurant being passed down to their son, Claiborne “Trey” Tapp III. They were kind, generous people known for being friendly to everyone & even giving out free meals to those in need. & I think that, combined with the fact that the food is actually good, is why it’s still going strong to this day. So I entered through the front door at around two & eventually found my way to the ordering counter.
It’s an interesting setup they have there. When you walk in, you’re automatically in the takeout part of the restaurant. You actually have to go through the doorpost on your right to get to the ordering station/cafeteria. But once you’re there, you will be greeted by a very friendly & patient staff who help walk you through the ordering process (which is convenient, especially for first-timers). Apparently, each entree comes with your choice of two sides. The menu does tend to change daily but one constant is (of course) the fried chicken. So I opted for the fried chicken (because when in rome) with a side of mac & cheese & beans. They also gave me some hush puppies & a slice of cake for dessert.
The fried chicken was…good. I mean it’s nothing special but you could certainly do worse. I can’t verify it but it definitely seemed like they were not particularly well-seasoned. But you do get your choice of legs, wings or breasts. The hush puppies were good too. I’d give them a solid eight. Incidentally, though, I think where their culinary staff truly shines is in its sides & desserts. I mean that mac & cheese was to die for & the oreo cake was so rich & creamy, I think I briefly transported to heaven for a second there. The chicken I could take or leave, but I would absolutely go back for more of that mac & cheese & cake. As for the beans, they gave me two kinds: lima & pinto. I was never a big lima bean fan but even I had to admit they were not half bad. The baked beans, I thought, were even better but I enjoyed both.
The wait time was a bit longer than anticipated but overall not too bad. & for how big my order was, I think the price was more than fair. If I only had two gripes, it would be this. The cups the beverages come in appear to be a bit smaller than most dining establishments but they definitely did not seem to be the kind of people who would decline to provide free refills. & finally, as much as I love music, I did find it to be a bit too loud when I was attempting to order. But like I said, those are two minor complaints in an otherwise pretty solid dining experience. & there is one other caveat to keep in mind: they’re only open weekdays for lunch from 11:30–2:30 Monday through Thursday & 11:30–3 on Friday (& no, I have no idea why they give you an extra half hour on the last day of the week). But if you’ve got the time & money, I think it’s absolutely worth a trip to the chicken hut at least once in your lifetime. If nothing else, you’ll walk away with some good food & perhaps even a good story.